| Strawberries,
in my eyes, are a must in every gardener's garden. Not
only colourful, decorative and tasty they are a vital
source of vitamin C and B and wonderful to use in the
kitchen.
Indeed the varieties available today are a far
cry from the wild strawberries past generations enjoyed
but they are still delicious nonetheless. The Strawberry
tree, or arbutus (Arbutus unedo), produces bright
red fruits that resemble strawberries but their taste is
more suited to jams and preservatives than eating. Other
wild varieties such as the Alpine strawberry have fruits
that taste like vanilla.
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Although we refer to
strawberries as fruits they are technically not. The
seeds that appear on the outside of a strawberry are the
true fruits and the tasty flesh is merely an accessory
to them. Strawberries are enjoyed all over the world by
people young and old and indeed wildlife too. If you
find you have an intolerance to strawberries that causes
reactions such as hives, or allergy symptoms why not try
white fruited strawberry cultivars as an alternative.
These cultivars lack the ripening protein that botanists
believe may cause the allergic reactions to the red
varieties.
When choosing a variety to grow be mindful of the purpose you will be using the strawberries for. Choose varieties that will either taste better when picked off the plant and eaten immediately, varieties that are better frozen and made into desserts or varieties that are better preserved. Strawberries prefer a light well drained soil and you may find it easier to start growing them in pots or hanging baskets. If they become to water logged the fruit will begin to rot, however there is a variety called
'Cambridge
Favourite' that copes well in places with high rainfall due to their ability to hold their fruits above soil level. Using light soil instead of heavy will allow more warmth to penetrate thus ensuring the plant will grow quicker. It will also promote good drainage and prevent red core root rot. If the soil you have is heavy choose red core root rot resistant varieties and plant four weeks earlier than usual to ensure establishment. If the soil you have is not free draining add sharp sand and well rotted compost. Strawberries are also notoriously
hard to weed when they are in the ground so ensure if
you are planting them to clear the area thoroughly
beforehand. As a strawberry plant takes the nutrients it
needs from the soil it is vital they are replenished. To
ensure this add manure and/or composted straw. |
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| Recommended
Varieties |
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Strawberry Patio Collection
'Fragaria' - A fantastic collection with a long cropping period that is perfectly proportioned for patio containers. Easy to grow and ideal for hanging baskets or window boxes, so you can 'grow your own' in even the tiniest of gardens! Imported from virus-free stock. Bareroot plants supplied. |
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Strawberry 'Sonata'
- A high
quality, mid-season variety producing uniform
shaped fruits in abundance from June to July. The
fruits of Strawberry ‘Sonata’ are deliciously
sweet and juicy and once picked will last well
without darkening in colour. This resilient
variety is able to stand very hot spells and
periods of heavy rain, with far fewer mis-shapen
berries during the first and second pickings than
are seen in other varieties. |
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Strawberry 'Albion'
- From the latest breeding in ‘ever-bearing’
varieties, Strawberry ‘Albion’ begins cropping
in June and continues in flushes until the end of
October! Each strawberry plant is capable of
producing 450g (1lb) of tasty fruit each year! The
heavy crops of mouth-watering, sweet, dark-red
berries have an outstanding flavour that remains
consistent throughout the summer. Better still,
this vigorous variety has improved disease
resistance to verticillium wilt and crown rot. |
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Strawberry 'Cambridge Favourite'
- The enduring popularity of this Strawberry
has made it one of the most well-known and
best-loved varieties available. This mid-season
strawberry produces a bumper crop of juicy
orange-red fruits with an excellent flavour and
texture from June to July. This superb variety is
reliable and tolerant of most situations, with
excellent disease resistance. |
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Strawberry : Irresistible (EM1294)
- Recent commercial trials by T&M found that
Strawberry ‘Irresistible’ had the best flavour
out of all the strawberry varieties tasted. The
vigorous dark green plants produce well shaped,
glossy berries with a large calyx, and an
exceptional sweet and juicy flavour. The delicious
fruits are ready to harvest from June to early
July but will also stand well on the plant for a
short time. |
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See
full list of strawberry plants |
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| Planting
Strawberries |
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- Plant mid summer to
early autumn and you should have a crop the
following summer.
- Plant in full sun and
out of the wind.
- For heavy not well
drained land plant in raised beds ensuring
sufficient room around the edges for harvesting the
fruits.
- Planting too close
together may encourage mildew. Choose varieties that
do not have too many leaves as this may make them
closer together and again will cause a mildew
outbreak.
- If planting in pots or
baskets water daily whilst
they're growing.
- Add tomato feed or
another potassium rich supplement approx every
fortnight.
- If planting in rows
the plants should be at least 40cm in rows that are
60 cm apart.
- Protect the area from
slugs using which ever method works best for you.
Bearing in mind Let's Go Gardening loves organic
gardening! The bonus of pots and baskets is they are
easier to keep slug free. 'Slug Stoppa Tape'
are ideal for this purpose.
- Place a net over the
plants to protect from birds and wildlife.
- In early Spring hoe
between the plants to allow moisture and air to
circulate.
- When watering take
care not to splash the leaves or fruits of the
plants. Use a watering can instead of a hose and
water carefully around the base of the plant.
- Use straw or
strawberry mats around the base of the plants to
stop the fruit from lying on the ground and to
prevent weeds.
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| Fertiliser |
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| Maiden
plants (Runners) |
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| When a
strawberry is growing they produce tendrils that have
little plants on the end and these are the runners. New strawberry plants
either bought or grown must be from runners. Wait
till they reach approx 3 or 4 leaves and remove from the
plant. Plant it in a pot of compost and water well.
Label and date your runners. |
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| Harvesting |
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| Once your
harvest is over remove all the protective straw or mats
that were put down and either destroy, compost or clean
thoroughly. Remove all old leaves from the plants with
shears leaving the crown and any new growth. Remove the
nets to allow birds access to pests. Many varieties will
crop for 3 years some possibly more, when you think the
plant has reached the end of its life span remove it and
compost it. If your plants have been infected by disease
then they would be better off destroyed rather than
composted.
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| Strawberry
Pests & Diseases |
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Aphids -
Distorted shoots
and leaves. Control: Biological control such as hoverflies,
ladybirds and lacewings.
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| Birds - Damage to plants,
eaten fruit crops. Control: Fruit cages or mesh and
nets. |
| Botrytis - Brown spots,
which are followed by a furry grey mould. The cause of
the disease is too much dampness in cool conditions.
Prevention rather than cure! Avoid over watering, ensure
decent air circulation, cut down on fertiliser use. If
infection occurs remove affected areas and burn or
discard. Do not compost. |
| Powdery Mildew - Light
grey powdery patches on the leaves, shoots and flowers.
Non developing, discoloured flowers. Causes and
treatment as with botrytis above. |
| Red Spider Mites - Speckling
and bronzing of the leaves. Usually found in greenhouses
as they thrive in warm and dry climates. Control: Spray underside
of leaves with water to keep plant moist and turn down
the temperature slightly. |
| Slugs - Damage to plants.
Nematodes are the best way to control a slug
infestation. Barriers around the plants such as crushed
egg shells, sand, soot and ash work temporarily but need
replacing often. Chemical controls are on offer
but make sure you choose those that do not affect the
plants or wildlife. 'Slug Stoppa
Tape'
is ideal for this purpose. |
| Viruses - There are many
individual viruses that affect strawberry plants. By
buying a registered disease free, disease resistant
plant you should ensure that the plant will not be
infected in the future. If however something does not
seem quite right it is important to research exactly
what you may have and if it will affect any of your
other plants. If the virus is specifically attracted to
strawberry plants it may be necessary to destroy and
start again. It may also be useful to find out exactly
where the virus originated from. |
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| Strawberry
Products |
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Strawberry
Planting Bags |
| Eight
planting pockets. Made from durable polypropylene.
Strong stitched construction. Eyeleted drainage
holes built in. Size: 30cm (12") diameter x
50cm (20") high. |
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Strawberry
Patio Planters |
| Reusable
planters that can be stored flat in the shed when
not in use, these fab planters are just what you
need for growing strawberries or herbs on balconies, terraces, or anywhere that space is a
bit tight. They have a decorative trim around the
top and eight planting pockets around the side so
there is plenty of room for all your favourites.
The handles make it very easy to turn them or move
them and they come with useful tips and growing
instructions. |
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Mulch
Mats for Strawberries / Lettuces (straw alternative) |
| Give your strawberries or lettuce
some extra protection and – ‘tuck them in’
by placing these organic fyba mats around the base
of the plants. The mats will protect the crops
from soil and rain splashes, keep lower leaves
clean and dry, help suppress weeds and help deter
slugs. |
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Strawberry
Tubs with Strawberry Net |
| A
Victorian-style tub which is great for growing
strawberries in and is made in a terracotta finish
complete with a net. The net helps protect the
fruit from birds. There is space for 32 plants and
50 litres of compost (not included). It is made
from durable polypropylene for long life. |
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Terracotta
Strawberry Planters |
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generous and sturdy planter has specifically been
designed for growing strawberries. The intention
is to keep the ripening fruits off the ground and
improve the air circulation around them, which
will help prevent pests and diseases getting to
the strawberries before you can. It has six
'planting pockets' around the side and has a wide
neck, so you could comfortably fit another five
plants up top and it would also be ideal for
planting a small collection of herbs. |
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Strawberry
Cages & Netting |
| Protect
your strawberries from birds and pests this summer
with these heavy duty fruit cages. |
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