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When creating a lawn for your garden it is best to decide what purpose the lawn will fit. Lawns used for ornamental purposes need designing differently to lawns that are to be walked over. Ornamental lawns can be planted in chamomile or thyme to create a cushion like affect that is a wonderful focal point.
Lawns used for playing on require hard wearing grass that will prevent bare patches from appearing. Decide if the lawn will seperate garden areas or attempt to bring them together. Low cut grass with flowers around the edge or on opposite sides can be visually pleasing. High grass can create a wild garden effect and can be used as an effective edging when planted with bulbous plants such as daffodils the end results can be amazing. Varying the height of the grass can also be effective providing a mown path through a wildlife patch will encourage people to walk through the garden and draws the eye to where you want it to be. When designing the lawn area take into account manageability, positioning and aesthetic possibilities.
When choosing the shape of your lawn you need to decide what garden style you are attempting to convey. Using geometric and symmetrical patterns and shapes creates a stylish, formal feel to your garden. Where space is minimal a circular lawn bordered with plants and flowers is highly effective. Using curved lines and leading and leading paths, lawns can guide your eye around the garden. Using more than one lawn can also create great movement in your garden. Leading your eye from one to the other using planting and paths and ending up at a focal point such as a fountain can be very attractive.
Lawns automatically connect opposite ends of a garden by drawing your eye from one part to another. When setting a focal point in the centre of a lawn you will notice the bordering plants create a backdrop rather than a distraction. Breaking up a large section of lawn with plants or trees helps to draw you into a garden. Your eye is led over the variation of colours and textures rather than just looking at an expanse of the same colour. Use a variety of colours and textures and shapes to compliment your lawn and to show it at its finest.
When creating paths instead of mowing narrow walkways that are going to be subjected to hard wear and tear use stones or lay a hard path. It looks attractive and will help to maintain the appearance and general state of your lawn. See: Paving
Any number of things can be used to create an edge to your lawn. Straight or defined circular edges can be mowed to give a striking appearance. Stones and bricks can be laid to provide permanent edging.
Plant borders can provide a wonderful display all year round and can create any style you desire. Anything from carpet forming to large trees can accentuate a lawn and show off its potential. Ornamental pots and containers can also be placed around the edge to provide a variation in levels and textures.

Traditional Victorian Rope Lawn Edge

Smartedge Lawn Edging (10m) Lawn Edging
Traditional Victorian Rope Lawn Edge 'Smartedge' Lawn Edging Economy Lawn Edging
There are two well known groups into which turf grasses are separated. Warm-season grasses and cool-season grasses. Warm-season ones prefer temperatures from 26-35C, (79-95F) and cool-season ones prefer 15-24C, (59-75F). Generally it is better to not use warm-season grasses in temperate places as they may not grow and will turn brown in winter when they are dormant.
Generally found in temperate climates ie the UK, cool-season grasses are mainly used for lawns. With a variety of different growing grasses to choose from you are bound to find one that will suit your garden. Tolerant low growing bents, wear resistant meadow, hard wearing ryegrass and fine leaved fescues are all typical cool-season grasses. Bents and fescues can tolerate close mowing whereas the others cannot. 
Warm-season grasses found in South America and Africa etc are adapted to survive in a range of warm climates. Using grasses such as Bermuda, St Augustine and species of Zoysia grass is most effective. Sow as a single species turf as they survive much better that way. Warm-season grasses lose colour below 10C (50F), so it may be necessary to sow some cool-season grass to boost the colour during the winter. 
Before selecting which turf to lay or seeds to sow you need to decide what purpose the lawn is. Different grass mixtures provide different services and have a range of various maintenance needs, appearance and wearability. Some are better for heavy use whereas others look more attractive in colour and texture. Ensure your grass choice is suited to the position of your lawn area and take into account the soil type, drainage and shade. 
Select grass species species that look attractive and have uniform colour and texture to create high quality lawns. Usually used for appearances only and not generally needed for heavy wear high quality lawns can create a perfectly formal area to your garden. 
Cool-season: Use grass mixtures containing fine leaved bents and fescues to create a high quality lawn. 
Warm-season: Use cultivars of Bermuda and Zoysia grasses. 
Functional lawns used for playing on and sitting on are utility lawns. Generally hard wearing they still need to be attractive and suited to the purpose required. 
Cool-season: Use perennial ryegrass mixed with real fescue, highland bent, browntop or smoothed stalked meadow grass. 
Warm-season: Use Bermuda grasses for a tough lawn. In shady areas use St Augustine grass. Carpet grass, centipede grass and bahia grass are all perfect for low maintenance gardens. 
These lawns require hard wearing species to be able to tolerate wear and tear. Depending on which activities are to be held on these lawns, different cultivars should be used to gain the correct results. 
Cool-season: Suitable for lawns such as golf putting greens, bowling greens and croquet lawns, grasses such as bents and fescues are needed. Perennial ryegrass mixtures may be of better use for surfaces that need to be extremely hard wearing such as tennis lawns.
Warm-season: Bermuda grasses provide hard wearing surfaces but check which cultivar is more suited to the type of lawn you need.
Using species that are native to the area will get you the best results as they will look natural and grow well. Choose a species best suited to the climate and soil conditions. 
Cool-season: Bents and fescues are generally suited for this purpose.
Warm-season: Warm season grasses tend to overtake flowering plants and are generally not used for this type of lawn area.
In dry, wet and shady areas it is essential to choose a grass that is suited to the conditions. For serious problem areas grow ground cover plants for maximum effect,  
Cool-season: For non heavy wear choose more tolerant grasses such as rough stalked meadow grass and wood meadow grass. Fescues grow in shady, wet areas. Turf timothy can grow in non shaded moist areas. Choose native species to grow in dry areas. 
Warm-season: In shade or on the coast choose St Augustine as it is salt tolerant. 
When creating a lawn that is for ornamental purposes, evergreen species such as moss and chamomile are very effective to use. Used in courtyard gardens or as a base for a fountain or obelisk they are aesthetically pleasing. Apple like fragrances are released from chamomile lawns when stepped upon but they are not up to heavy wear. 
When first establishing a lawn you need to decide which method to choose. Seeding is the cheapest option but the lawn cannot be subjected to any wear and tear until at least a year afterwards. This option is not recommended if any pets are present that may disturb the young seedlings before they have grown. Turfing is more expensive but the effect is immediate and heavy wear can commence after two to three months.  
Once the size of the plot has been outlined and the expense has been taken into account choosing the correct turf for your lawn can be done. Use a reputable firm to buy the turf from. Try to inspect it before you buy it to check the condition and quality. Check for disease, weeds and pests.  
Purpose grown turf: Used because of its disease and weed free properties, purpose grown turf is raised from the newest grass cultivars. 
Meadow turf: Usually the cheapest turf as it is grown for agricultural purposes. Can differ in quality though so it is best to inspect it first.
Sea marsh turf: This contains bents and fine fescues. Usually grown in estuaries its clay deposits sometimes reduce tolerance to wear as drainage is restricted.
Where possible try to lift and lay turf on the same day for maximum results. If unavoidable roll it out and lay the turf flat on a plastic sheeting or paved area. Try to choose a shaded area and water well. Do not let it dry out. It must be rolled out to receive sunlight otherwise the grass will die.
Any time of the year is suitable for laying turf. Lay on moist soil to encourage rooting. 
  • Lay first row against a straight edge ie a patio or path.
  • Kneel on a plank on the first row and lay the second row in a staggered design as if building a brick wall.
  • Using a rake, press down on the turf when laid to compress any air.
  • Water well and keep moist.
Prepare the area and add fertiliser to the base. Plant the seedlings, rooted cuttings or pot grown specimens at 15-30cm spacings. Keep well watered.
Sow seeds in moist, warm conditions for immediate germination. Hot conditions can cause seedlings to wilt and die. Sowing too little seed may allow weeds to intercept the gaps and interfere with the grasses growth rate. Sowing too many seeds can produce humid conditions and damage seedlings.
Sow seeds by hand or machine. Afterwards lightly rake over and water. Protect area from birds until established growth is seen.
When the grass has reached 2cm of growth cut it to 1cm using a rotary mower so as not to pull up any young shoots. Taking into consideration the type of grass grown, time of year and use of the lawn it is generally best to mow little and often. If the grass is cut severely and at odd times the quality of the lawn will decrease.
Cut high quality lawns frequently to keep their appearance and to a 0.5cm length.
Utility lawns can be mowed less to maintain their heavy wear properties.
Maintenance is essential in keeping the lawns appearance. Watering and mowing are frequent tasks but annually you should aerate, fertilise and top dress. Maintain quality controls such as weeding and ridding of pests and diseases when necessary.
Drought: Affects lawns and other grassed areas. You will see discoloured patches appearing on the lawn and varying sizes of straw like areas. This is caused by inadequate watering and dry weather. Lawns must be watered frequently to avoid this problem.
Cats and dogs: Affect lawns lawns, garden plants and seedlings. Will see faeces, urine patches and scratched areas. Attempt to keep animals out. Water areas regularly that are visited by cats. Repellants can be used but only temporarily.
Dollar spot: Affects lawns and grassed areas. Will see straw coloured, pale patches. Caused by a fungus that thrives in compacted soils and those treated with lime. Improve aeration and treat affected area.
Starvation: Affects lawns and grassed areas. Will see pale, patchy thin grass. Slow growth. Caused by inadequate feeding. Spring feed your lawn and also in summer and autumn.
Snow mould: Affects annual meadow grass lawns. Will see yellow patches of grass that has died. Whit fungal growth on damp areas. Caused by a fungus that grows with poor aeration. Improve aeration and maintenance in these areas. 

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