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Weeds are basically plants that grow
where they are not wanted. Occurring in any part of the garden,
in any type of soil, they are often invasive, quick-growing and resistant to any control. They take vital nutrients from nearby
plants thus decreasing their growth and health. |
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Weeds can be annual or
perennial. If you find annual weeds in your garden try to remove
them when they are seedlings so as not to allow them to make
seeds. Perennial weeds are harder to remove as they will come
back year after year. If pulling out perennial weeds ensure to
pull out the whole of the root as well to minimise the chance of
them returning. When disposing of weeds that you have pulled it
is best to burn them and not compost them as many weeds will
survive the composting process and return to your garden when
you add it to your soil.
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Similarly
to annual plants, annual weeds complete their cycle in one year.
The seeds from annual weeds are generally light and quick to fly
and germinate. This is why they must be pulled before they are
allowed to produce seeds. When the weeds have seeded they will
grow rapidly and quickly tower over existing plants. Seeds may
also lay beneath the surface of the soil for years until that
soil is cultivated which brings them to the top when they will
then grow. Link: Weeding
Tools
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Perennial
weeds are persistent in that they can survive the colder months
by maintaining their reserves in their roots. Woody stemmed
perennial weeds keep their reserves in their branches and stems
during the winter. Herbaceous weeds die back during autumn and
return in spring. Link: Weeding
Tools
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The
same rules apply for tackling both annual and perennial weeds.
Good garden maintenance is essential in preventing weed
infestations occurring.
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It is more effective to
prepare the soil correctly before planting anything as it is
harder to remove weeds from between existing plants. The
site should be cleared manually and completely dug over to
ensure all traces of weeds are removed. |
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When choosing plants pick
varieties that are strong and healthy as this will deter
weeds from growing there. Plants that have spreading foliage
will thwart any attempts at weed germination as they will
cast dark shadows over the soil thus cutting out the light
underneath. Plants that are grown for ground cover also have
the same effect, although some may be invasive thus becoming
weeds themselves. |
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Mulching the soil is also
effective as it will prevent weeds from germinating.
Perennial weeds may push through the mulch but as their root
system will be developed in the soft matter they can be
easily pulled out intact. |
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Laying weed
membrane over the
ground and planting through it will limit the weeds from
germinating and pushing through it. Sprinkle a material over
the top such as bark or gravel to make it more pleasing to
the eye. |
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Certain vegetables hold their
own against annual weeds and can be grown to aid in garden
maintenance as well as a food source. |
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Obviously some weeds may get
through and once they are established other methods may need to
be used to get rid of them. There is an array of chemicals on
offer to but to help eradicate weeds but ensure you are using
the correct one for the job. Weedkillers act on the soil, the
leaves or on specific plants. Using the wrong one, especially if
you are using it close to your plants, could cause damage that
may be irreparable. Always check manufacturers guidelines before
using any chemicals and ensure that you are wearing suitable
protective equipment if needed. Weedkillers will come with a
variety of brand names depending on where you but them but the
chemicals inside are what counts. Do not just go for the
cheapest option or the biggest bottle, research which one is
best for the weed problem you have.
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As
the name suggests the following examples of weedkillers are not
fussy as to what they will eradicate. Generally used mainly in
clearing large empty areas that have not yet been planted
in.
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These are simply examples of
products and are not recommendations.
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| Glyphosate
(Roundup Weedkiller) |
General
and Spot Weeder |
| Diquat
(Weedol Weedkiller) |
Fast
acting ground clearance |
| Diflufenican
& Oxadiazon |
Paths
and Gravel |
| Gluphosinate-Ammonium
& Diuron |
Paths
and Gravel |
| Paraquat |
Fast
acting ground clearance (generally agricultural only) |
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Roundup
weedkiller (Large
- treats 280m²) 'Glyphosate' |
| Roundup
weedkiller will completely kill all weeds and roots. Annual
weeds that it will kill include chick weed, speedwell and
annual meadow grass. Perennial weeds include most grasses
including couch grass, bindweed, dandelions, docks, ground
elder and thistles. Brush weeds include brambles, nettles,
horsetail and bracken. |
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Weedol 2
'Diquat' |
| An economical
weedkiller that can be used all round the garden except on
lawns, unless you want to kill them. Weedol doesn't harm
the soil so seeding or planting can be carried out
immediately after treatment. Young green suckers of roses,
lilac and plums can also be killed without harming the
rootstock. Effective at any time of the year, Weedol is
rainproof in 10 minutes. Contains
diquat. Keep away from
children and pets. |
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Weedburners
& Weed removal tools
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| Make light use
of weeding by using a range of weed removal tools like
weed burners, weed wands, weed extractors and more. |
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These
are simply examples of products and are not
recommendations.
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These
examples of products are more suited for tackling individual
weeds without risk of harm to the surrounding plants.
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| 2,4-D &
Mecroprop-P |
Use instead of a
weed and feed when fertiliser is not required. Use as a
spot weeder. |
| 2,4-D, Mecroprop-P
& Dicamba |
More
concentrated selective weedkiller for mature brambles,
tree stumps and nettles. |
| Fluroxypyr,
Clopyralid & MCPA |
Use instead of a
weed and feed when fertiliser is not required. Use as a
spot weeder. |
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The
choice to go organic obviously limits the methods you can
use to remove weeds but there are some other alternatives
to simply pulling and digging them out. Vinegar is
biodegradable and will work on eliminating your weeds.
Normal household vinegar contains approx 5% acetic acid
and this is ample enough to harm immature weeds. Best used
when hot and repeated for a few days. You may find that
the pH of your soil wavers slightly but this is temporary.
If using vinegar to treat weeds in between concrete and
stone paths or patios simply hose down once the treatment
is complete and their colour will return. Corn Gluten Meal
is effective in preventing weeds from germinating and will
have no side effects on plants that already have roots. Of
course if your weeds have roots than it will not work. It
also releases approx 10% of nitrogen into your soil and is
often used as a weed and feed treatment for lawns. It is a
product made by the wet milling of maize and as most maize
is found in North America supply to the UK is limited. |
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Soak
the ground thoroughly with a hose pipe and pull the weeds up
from the base. The whole plant and roots should come straight
out, easy. Mulching is a great way
to keep weeds down. Apply a porous weed suppressing membrane
for extra help. Also helps reduce water loss from the soil in
dry spells and helps to keeps roots cool. Worms are attracted
to the extra protection the mulch offers at the surface, worms
travel to the surface layer helping to aerate the soil. Link: Weeding
Tools
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Bindweed
- Dig out the roots with a fork when the soil is damp, do not
be tempted to pull it as the roots are fragile and will snap.
In some cases the roots have been known to grow down to 6ft so
constant weeding and hoeing will weaken the plant over time.
In extreme cases remove any wanted plants from the soil and
treat the ground with weedkiller. When removing plants open up
the rootball and make sure their are no bindweed roots within.
Where it is not possible to remove plants untwine bindweed and
paint on a weedkiller containing glyphosate such as 'Round-Up'. |
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Broad-leaved
Dock - Hand weed in moist soil to pull out the roots. |
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Creeping
Buttercup - Perennial spreading by seed and creeping surface stems. Resistant to
mowing. Dig out, clearing all of the runners, white fibrous roots do
not re-grow, but ensure that the crown is removed. Rake up the
creeping stems before mowing. |
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Couch
Grass - Remove before it flowers and
sets seed. Avoid chopping with the hoe as the roots will survive and
re-grow. Loosen soil with a fork and pull by hand in moist soil. |
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Moss
- Moss is a sign of shady damp soil. Dig over the soil with
sharp sand. In lawns use a scarifier and aerator and top dress
with sharp sand. Thin out the canopy of nearby trees to let in
more light. |
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Hairy
Bittercress - Pull by hand in moist soil. |
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Stinging
Nettle -
Continual close mowing will kill them, but the thick yellow roots
remain for a year or two and will regenerate if mowing stops. I find
that if they are pulled from wet soil at the mature stage the thick surface roots
tend to come away too and the nettles may not return or do so in
reduced numbers. Don't forget to wear gloves. |
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Weeding
Tools |
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Giant
Hogweed |
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