| This effective and
inexpensive way of propagating plants is swiftly becoming more
popular than buying seeds. One plant is all that is
needed to get you started with growing your own plants. |
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In less than six months you could end up with an adult
plant that is exactly like its parent in every way. This
method of 'cloning' plants has helped to save some of
the world's endangered species. Taking cuttings can also
be turned into an enjoyable hobby. Only taking about 4-6
weeks to be rooted and potted up, cuttings are the fast
way to produce new plants. |
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Once you've mastered the art of propagating your own plants,
the experience can be shared amongst friends and families. Why
not set up a plant exchange? It is completely free and you
might just obtain that special plant that would look great in
your house or garden! |
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| Choose
a healthy young shoot, 2 to 4 inches long. |
Trim
leaves from the lower half of the stem. |
Dip
into rooting hormone
if you have any. |
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| Choose
a fine potting compost mixed with sharp sand or perlite. |
Plant
the shoots around the edge of the pot. |
Water
from below. |
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| Pierce
a bag and cover pot to hold in moisture. |
Shoots
can be transplanted when roots appear. |
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| There
are a variety of ways in which you can take cuttings from your
plants and it is important to know what type to take in order
to maximise success as explained further on. There are
also a few different ways in which you can root your cuttings
so by finding the method that is best suited to your plant you
are giving it the very best start. Most popular methods
include water, specific composts that are formulated
especially for cuttings and a variety of mixtures containing
peat, perlite, sand or grit. Not all of these methods will be
suitable for every plant so a bit of trial and error may be
required. |
| Other
things you may need to consider before you take your cuttings
are your technique, the time of year and the healthiness of
your plant. The same rules apply to cuttings as they do when
you buy seeds. Not every cutting will root just as every seed
you buy may not. The success rate of cuttings is between
60-70% to the average gardener but with a little care and
attention there is no reason why the majority of your cuttings
shouldn't root. As with everything preparation and a little
bit of research is vital. |
| The
only objects that you need to begin taking cuttings are a
sharp knife or secateurs, a rooting medium, rooting
powder or gel (for difficult cuttings) and a windowsill. Ensure
that your cutting tools are clean and sharp, this will stop
any cross infection that could lead to disease and also
tearing and bruising of the plant and cutting. The rooting
medium should be specifically bought or made for your cuttings
and never recycled from other pots or the garden. To encourage
healthy growth of your cuttings it may be an idea to use a
rooting hormone containing fungicide to combat any fungus
diseases. |
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Temperature is very important to stimulate good growth. The
ideal temperature for most cuttings is between 18-21C. Most
cuttings will do well with a temperature drop of down to about
10C, any less than that and they will suffer. There are a wide
range of methods available to help you keep a regular
temperature around your plants. Simply choose the method that
is most suited to your own situation. Greenhouses and
propagators are probably the most widely used ways of
regulating the temperature. They provide moisture control that
is invaluable to your plants well being. More often than not
all you need is the warmth of a windowsill. You must ensure
not to draw any curtains between the plant and the window as
this will discourage the cuttings from rooting. Another way to
regulate the temperature is to supply a gentle warmth, by
electrical cables under soil or tanks filled with hot water,
directly to the base of the containers. More sophisticated
equipment is available for cuttings taken on a larger
scale. |
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Cuttings are very sensitive to moisture loss so direct
sunlight is damaging to them. In order to control the moisture
loss place a clear, plastic bag over the cuttings and their
container, ensuring that the bag is secure but not touching
the plants. If using water as a method to root your cuttings
this treatment is not needed as the water will replace any
moisture lost. Alternatively you can spray your cuttings
regularly with water to increase humidity. |
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Different plants have different methods in which rooting
cuttings should be done. Houseplants usually need water and a
jam jar like container. Outdoor plants and perennials such as
fuchsias and geraniums usually need compost or mixtures of
peat, sand or grit. Whilst these are the most widely used
methods you can interchange them to see how they work for you.
It is important to remember to experiment. You may find that
one method works particularly well for one plant and not
another even though they are similar. |
| Taking
cuttings can be done in a lot of different ways but it is
important to establish exactly which category your plant falls
into. Cuttings are divided into two main categories depending
on the kind of plant and what time of year is best suited to
them. The two categories are softwood
and hardwood cuttings. Each has requirements for
rooting i.e. correct size, enough warmth and moisture and
suitable rooting medium. Choose carefully from
where on the plant you wish to take a cutting so that your new
plant reflects the desired characteristics of its parent
plant. |
| Many
house
plants, perennials and some shrubs fall into the softwood
cuttings category. These should usually be taken in spring
and summer. Cuttings
taken between March and October for house plants and
perennials, and between June and July for shrubs produce the
best results. These cuttings should root between one to eight
weeks. Any plants that are susceptible to frost should be
rooted indoors or in greenhouses. When selecting softwood
cuttings you should look for young sections from the current
growth, firm but flexible shoots and no flowers, fruit or
seedheads. Always remove any diseased or damaged parts and
make sure your cuttings are at least two to four inches long
with at least two leaf joints attached. |
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| Stem
cuttings, the most common type, can be made from shoot
tips or side shoots and taken from most plants. Choose a
healthy, young shoot, two to four inches long. Trim any leaves
from the lower half of the stem, cut the stem below a leaf
joint and insert at least half of the cutting into your
rooting medium. |
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Leaf stem cuttings, from plants consisting mainly of
leaves, with short or no distinct stems. Using a healthy
adult leaf, trim and insert into rooting medium. A new
plant will grow from the base of the leaf and a root
system will grow from the stem. |
| Bud
cuttings are taken from plants with long trailing stems.
Removing a section of the stem from above and below a leaf
joint insert the section below the bud into the rooting
medium. |
| Leaf
cuttings, from plants consisting mainly of leaves , with
little or no stems. Selecting a healthy adult leaf, cut
sections of one inch right across the leaf. Insert into
rooting medium upright about halfway down. |
| Many
shrubs, trees and conifers fall into the hardwood cuttings
category. These should usually be taken in autumn and winter.
Cuttings taken between July and October for semi-hardwood
cuttings, and between September and March for hardwood
cuttings produce the best results. These cuttings should root
between two to twelve months. Hardy plants should be rooted in
containers outdoors or in cold greenhouses. |
| When
selecting hardwood cuttings you should look for: mature
sections from the current growth, (usually from the base of
the stem), firm, woody shoots and no flowers, fruit or
seedheads. Always remove any diseased or damaged parts and
make sure your cuttings are at least six to eighteen inches
long with at least two leaf joints attached. |
| Stem
cuttings, taken from most semi-hardwood and hardwood
cuttings i.e. conifers, shrubs and trees. Choose a firm, woody
stem at least six inches long, depending on plant size and
remove the leaves from the lower part. Trim to below a leaf
joint and insert two thirds into the rooting medium. |
| Bud
or leaf cuttings, from most climbers and some evergreen
shrubs and trees. Removing a section of the stem three to six
inches long by cutting above and below a leaf joint, insert
the stem up to the bud into the rooting medium. |
| Root
cuttings, taken from some herbaceous perennials, shrubs
and trees. Exposing the roots, remove sections which are at
least a quarter of an inch in diameter (approx the same width
as a pencil). Cut the roots into sections of one and a half to
three inches long. A flat cut at the top end of the cutting
and a diagonal cut at the bottom is the preferred method. This
is so the cuttings are inserted into the rooting medium the
correct way up. Insert the cuttings completely into the
rooting medium. This type of cutting is limited to a few
plants. |
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Choosing the correct time of year to take your cuttings is
vital for success. Using the calendar below as a rough guide
will enable you to choose the correct month for your desired
plants.
January: Root
cuttings of some herbaceous perennials, shrubs and trees
protected under glass.
February: Root cuttings of some herbaceous perennials, shrubs and trees
protected under glass. Softwood stem cuttings from half-hardy
and hardy perennials.
March: Softwood stem cuttings from half-hardy perennials. Base stem
cuttings from border perennials. Cuttings from houseplants.
Hardwood cuttings from shrubs.
April: Base
stem cuttings from border and half-hardy perennials. House
plants. Softwood cuttings from shrubs.
May: Base
stem cuttings from border perennials. Alpines. Houseplants.
Softwood cuttings from shrubs and climbers & herbs.
June:
Alpines. Houseplants. Softwood cuttings from shrubs and
climbers. Herbs.
July: Stem
cuttings from herbaceous perennials and semi-hardwood cuttings
from shrubs and trees. Softwood cuttings from shrubs and
climbers. Alpines. Houseplants. Herbs.
August: Stem
cuttings from herbaceous and half-hardy perennials. Softwood
and semi-hardwood cuttings from shrubs and climbers. Alpines.
Houseplants. Herbs. Strawberry runners.
September: Stem cuttings from herbaceous and half-hardy perennials.
Alpines. Houseplants. Herbs. Semi-hardwood cuttings from
shrubs, trees and climbers.
October: House plants. Semi-hardwood and hardwood cuttings from shrubs,
trees and climbers.
November: Root cuttings of some herbaceous perennials, shrubs and trees
protected under glass. Hardwood cuttings from shrubs, trees
and climbers.
December: Root cuttings of some herbaceous perennials, shrubs and trees
protected under glass. Stem cuttings from perennials protected
under glass.
It pays to
remember that some of our best loved plants are poisonous.
Although not normally an issue it becomes one when taking
cuttings. It is possible for some of the sap to come into
contact with skin or household items once the stem or leaf is
cut. Try to wear gloves whilst handling plants and always wash
hands and work surfaces thoroughly afterwards. Below is a list
of plants to watch out for.
Azalea, Codiaeum,
Datura, Dieffenbachia, Euphorbia, Fatshedera, Gloxinia, Hedera
helix, Hoya, Nerium, Philodendron.
Sometimes your cuttings will simply not root. This may be
because the part of the plant that you have tried to use is
not capable of forming roots. Try to avoid any plants that are
growing from bulbs or any flowers from a florist's
arrangement.
Once
your cuttings are well rooted they should be potted up into a
good compost. For any plant, pot up cuttings in a small pot to
establish a good root system before transferring them into a
larger pot or garden.
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| Name |
Cutting
type |
Weeks
to root |
Cuttings
per pot |
Success
Rating |
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| Aphelandra
- Zebra plant |
Stem |
3-4 |
3 |
Moderate |
| Begonia |
Stem |
2-3 |
3 |
Easy |
| Beloperone-
Shrimp plant |
Stem |
3-4 |
3 |
Moderate |
| Codiaeum
- Croton |
Stem |
3-5 |
4 |
Easy |
| Coleus
- Flame nettle |
Stem |
1-2 |
3 |
Easy |
| Columnea
- Goldfish plant |
Stem |
2-3 |
4 |
Easy |
| Crassula
- Jade plant |
Stem
or Leaf |
3-6 |
3 |
Easy |
| Dracaena
- Dragon plant |
Stem
(tip) |
3-4 |
2 |
Easy |
| Echevaria |
Entire
leaf |
2-3 |
4 |
Easy |
| Ficus - Rubber plant |
Stem or bud |
3-4 |
1 |
Easy |
| Gynura - Velvet plant |
Stem |
2-3 |
3 |
Easy |
| Opuntia - Prickly pear |
Sections/pads |
3-4 |
2 |
Easy |
| Pelargonium |
Stem |
3-4 |
3 |
Moderate |
| Peperomia |
Leafstem/leaf |
3-4 |
4 |
Easy |
| Philodendron
scandens |
Stem
/ Leafbud |
3-4 |
3 |
Easy |
| Saintpaulia
- African Violet |
Leafstem |
4-8 |
4 |
Moderate |
| Sansevieria
- Mother in laws tongue |
Leaf
Section |
5-6 |
1 |
Easy |
| Saxifraga - Mother of
thousands |
Offsets |
1-2 |
4 |
Easy |
| Schlefflera - Umbrella
tree |
Stem |
3-4 |
3 |
Easy |
| Schlumbergera -
Christmas cactus |
Leaf |
3-4 |
4 |
Easy |
| Senecio - Bead plant |
Stem |
3-4 |
6 |
Moderate |
| Sinningia - Gloxinia |
Whole leaf |
4-5 |
2 |
Moderate |
| Tolmiea - Piggy back
plant |
Offset |
3-4 |
3 |
Easy |
| Tradescantia |
Stem |
1-2 |
4 |
Easy |
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